As you work from level to level, you will master the key elements of dog training—timing, technique, motivation, and building on known behaviors—as you achieve a stronger bond with your dog. Each section concludes with review quizzes and prompts to re-evaluate your knowledge, your dog's progress, and your relationship. The numbered trick cards identify the difficulty level and the specific skill reinforced for each trick. With this complete curriculum in dog tricks, you will establish a conscious and consistent pattern of relating to your dog in a meaningful partnership based on trust, communication, and respect.
A dynamic YouTube star and Animal Planet personality with a fresh approach, Zak helps you to tailor train to your dog's unique traits and energy level--leading to quicker results and a much happier pet. Packed with everything you need to know to raise and care for your dog, this book will help you communicate and bond with one another in a way that makes training easier, more rewarding, and--most of all--fun!
You will never have a bored, rainy day again! See happy dogs and their owners participating in a wide range of activities together, and bringing joy to others, and you, too, will be inspired to find new things to do with your beloved dog. Then, you go one step further: enjoy the visual, step-by-step instruction on how to teach your dog the basics.
That way, you can try the sport out on your own at home, without the commitment of signing up for a class. And if you DO decide that this is an activity that you'd like to pursue, you can go into a class with confidence!
Activities for you and your dog include: -Volleyball -Jump Rope -Scent Work -Sledding -How to work with hearing-impaired dogs -Becoming a therapy dog, an animal actor, a dog blood donor, and much more! Tricks and tips are specifically designed for your puppy's developing mind and body.
The first two years of your puppy's life are a crucial time in his or her development. By teaching your puppy early and using positive reinforcement methods, you will instill in him or her a cooperative spirit and a lifetime love of learning. Instead of focusing on curbing bad behaviors, this guide will help you establish a lifetime bond with your puppy as you teach skills ranging from beginner "come," "stay" tomore advanced "tidy up toys into a box,"fetch the newspaper". Positive reinforcement methods are the fastest and easiest way to teach a puppy.
These anxiety-free methods produce a joyful puppy who is a willing partner in the learning process. Documents Similar To dog tricks. Tabitha Miller. Cristian Oros. Leonardo Alexandra. Ainhoa Nocete. Martha Diana Obrinteschi. Miquel Trasserra. Adriana Pop. Bojan Kokorus. Tesh McGillicutty. Lemuel Candelasa. Meg Howe. Macmillan Publishers. Sylvia Neta. Gerrick Balberan. Sandri Alexandra Negreanu. When teaching new tricks, food is often used as a lure and is released instantly to mark a correct behavior.
For more general obedience training, or when rewarding your dog at the end of a session, reward in this order: praise, pat on the head, and then a food reward. Not only will this serve to keep your dog in a calm state of mind, but an association will develop whereby verbal praise will be pleasantly associated with your touch, and your touch will be associated with the food reward.
When instructed to "down" or "stay" for example, your dog is expected to remain in that position until you release him with your release word. When a training session has ended, "OK" releases your dog to run and play. Dogs can perform a trick based upon a verbal cue or hand signal.
Hand signals are extremely useful for dogs performing in movies on quiet sets, and they generally give you more options. When a child asks your dog a question, your subtle "bark" hand signal can cue your dog to answer! Most dogs actually respond to hand signals more readily than verbal cues. Try it with your dog: use a verbal cue from one trick while signaling for another trick. Most often, the dog will perform the trick indicated by your hands! Words and signals for some tricks are more standardized than others.
Basic obedience commands and many agility commands are widely used and have evolved with good reason. It can be helpful to use standardized verbal cues and hand signals, especially if your dog has aspirations of a movie career. Hand signals may look arbitrary but have often evolved from the methods used in a dog's initial training. The raising of the hand as a signal to "sit" evolves from your initial upward baiting when teaching the command.
A downward hand motion is used to signal "down" and parallels your initial baiting of your dog near the floor.
The toe-touch foot signal for "take a bow" draws your dog's attention toward the floor, coaxing his head downward. And the flick of your wrist to the right is a diminished version of the large circle you drew when teaching your dog to "spin ".
Trick training, of course, is not a life-or-death pursuit and if you want to make up your own words and signals, nobody can stop you! A word of caution though: the more tricks you teach, the qUicker you will run out of words. Some of the best tricks happen by accident!
If your dog acts out a long and laborious death in the "play dead" trick, capitalize on his inventiveness and teach the trick his way. In obedience class, your job is to instruct your dog on the correct behaviors, and his job is to do exactly what you wish.
In trick training you are a team-allow the training process to be a collaborative one. Once your dog has learned individual behaviors, you can chain them together and give a name to this new set of actions. There are many ways to use command chains, and even in practice they are a great brain exercise for your dog. How many years does it take for a child to become educated?
For an athlete to become skilled? How many piano lessons until you're a musician? Dog training should be thought of as a lifelong process. Although at some point your dog will be able to produce a behavior on cue, he will still need repetition and refinement to maintain and improve his skills. Challenge your dog with new skills for the rest of his life, and you'll find your bond will increase tenfold.
Or perhaps you envision commanding your dog to help with the housework by gathering up all his toys into his toy box. Let me burst your bubble right now, your dog is never going do such complicated tricks completely independent of you, and certainly not without a reward. Tricks like these will require you to be within eye contact of your dog and will probably require verbal coaching and multiple commands.
Remember, while these tricks mimic everyday simple human chores, they are complicated challenges for your dog. You're on your way to becoming the next great trick dog team. Grab your treat bag, Rover's favorite toy, your copy of Dog TIicks, and let's get started!
Reward with tasty treats 2. Reward while your dog is in the correct position 3. Reward immediately no fishing in pockets 4.
Train before dinner 5. Training comes before playtime 6. End the session with your dog wanting more 7. Be consistent 8. Motivate-use your happy voice 9. Be patient-it won't happen overnight Be a fun person to be around Chapter 1 Groundwork "Obedience" is a word often misinterpreted in dog training to suggest the imposition of a dominating control over our dog.
But let's get past the word and think of basic obedience skills as the groundwork upon which a successful living arrangement between dog and owner is achieved. The sit, down, come, and stay behaviors are marks of a civilized and well-behaved dog. These behaviors will also be required for almost every trick in this book, and time spent teaching them now will reduce frustration down the road.
Obedience training serves a greater purpose than merely teaching your dog to perform behaviors upon command. It is a mental exercise and a comfortable routine that allows you to reconnect with your dog. Warming up with these familiar skills gives your dog the confidence to achieve new ones. This should cause his nose to point up and his rear to drop.
If his rear does not drop, keep moving the treat straight backward toward his tail. The instant his rear touches the floor, release the treat and mark the behavior by saying "good sit! Pull up on his leash at the same time to rock him back into a sit. Praise and reward him while he is sitting. Remember to only reward while your dog is in the correct position-sitting. Within a week, you should see some progress! Once he has learned the behavior, he should not break his sit until released.
Command your dog to sit before each meal. This reinforces your position as pack leader and is just good manners! This vital command could help avert dangerous situations such as unsafe road crossings. Remember to only release the treat while your dog is in the correct position-lying down. If your dog slouches instead of lying down, slide the treat slowly toward him on the floor between his front paws or away from him.
It may take a little time but your dog should eventually lie down. Praise your dog when he drops to the floor. It is always preferable to coax the dog to position himself without your physical manipulation. With your dog lying down, say "wait, wait" and then "good" and release the treat. Varying the time before treating will keep your dog focused. The dog should not move from the down position until you have given your release word, "OK!
This skill can be learned by dogs and puppies of any age. Evaluate your status as pack leader. Standing on his leash will cause him to self-correct if he tries to stand up.
Short-coated dogs will often resist downing on hard floor. Try a carpet or towel. Once you've mastered down, it will be an easy step to learn crawl page ! Slide the treat toward or away from him. Release the treat once your dog lies down. Use a leash to guarantee control. Be sure to give the praise and treat while your dog remains in the seated and staying position. You want your dog to be successful so if he is breaking his stays, go back to a time and distance he is able to achieve. Be firm and consistent, and it won't take may sessions before your dog begins to understand.
Talking evokes action, and you want inaction. Solid body language will convey your seriousness. Vary your pattern; sometimes return to him and leave him again without rewarding. In competition, this command ends with your dog sitting in front of you. In order for this command to be consistently obeyed, your status as pack leader needs to be definite.
Not obeying this command, however, should be viewed as a major infraction and should end with you physically bringing your dog to the spot from where you originally called him. Your command should sound happy. Give the command only once. Let your dog drag a leash.
If he does not obey your first command, go to him and firmly lead him back to the spot where you gave the command. Do not give a reward if the dog does not perform the command on his own, the first time you call. Put the long lead back on him and require him to do five successful "comes" before attempting off-lead again. Do not chase your dog, as that will only encourage him. Stand your ground and demand that he come. Dogs respond to a leader. If you are not in a position to enforce it. Call your dog to come for good things.
Never call "come" for a bath or trip to the vet-go and get your dog instead. Chapter 2 Traditional Favorites Fetch, shake, speak, and play dead. These tricks are expected of dogs and it is your task, possibly even your duty. The tricks in this chapter have withstood the test of time for a reason: they are simple to teach and easy to learn.
They capitalize on dogs' natural behaviors by associating familiar actions with verbal cues. Is your dog vocal?
It should be simple for you to elicit a bark, associate it with a cue, and reward it. Retrievers will no doubt fetch before they are out of puppyhood, and hyper dogs will be excited to proffer a paw when encouraged to "shake.
This skill is taught for both paws. Encourage your dog to paw at it by saying "get it" and "shake. Stand up and hold the treat in your left hand, behind your back, and extend your right hand while cuing "shake.
Practice a couple of times per day. He may try barking. Be patient, and keep encouraging him. If he is not lifting his paw on his own, tap or barely lift it for him and then reward. Once you've mastered shake hands and paw, use a similar action to learn chorus line kicks page and wave goodbye page Use the word "good" to mark the exact instant your dog performed the desired behavior.
Take it is when he takes an object within reach into his mouth. Show your dog as you drop a treat inside the ball. As he is unable to get the treat himself, he will learn to bring it to you for his reward. As your dog improves, extend the time he holds the object before treating. Only treat if you remove the toy from your dog's mouth, not if he drops it on his own.
Have your dog hold a flag as he circles the field or have him carry a charming "feed me" sign. A dog holding a pipe is always good for a laugh, and a posh pooch carrying a basket of cocktail napkins is sure to impress! Bat it around or bounce it off walls. Make it a competition and race him for it. Lure him back with a treat, or run away from him to encourage him to chase you. Have a second ball to get his attention. Once you've mastered fetch, build on it with: fetch my slippers page Build on take it with: carry my purse page Excessive mouthing of tennis balls can lead to tooth wear.
If your dog is a chewer, give him a hard rubber toy such as a Kong. Give is released to your hand. It may take several minutes, but when your dog finally drops the toy, reward him with food or by throwing his toy.
He will have to release the toy to eat the treai, at which time you can praise him. Build a habit of only throwing the toy if your dog relinquishes it willingly. No, as this could result in a dog bite, intentional or not. A better way to get a dog to release his grip is to pull upward on the skin on the side of his rib cage. Once you've mastered drop it, build on it with tidy up your toys page 46 , and basketball page 90 , TIP!
To open a dog's mouth for exam, put your hand over the top of his muzzle, roll his lips over his teeth, and separate the jaws. Gently hold your dog's muzzle parallel to the floor and place a treat upon the bridge of his nose.
You'll want to slow these dogs down by using a calm, quiet "catch. He wil1 1earn that he needs to catch the treat or risk losing it to you on the floor. Placing the treat near the end of your dog's nose is usually easiest to catch, but every dog is different. Although it is possible to teach this trick to pug-nosed breeds, it is more difficult. A bendable treat, such as a wet noodle, is easier to balance.
Increase the difficulty of this trick by having your dog beg page 28 while balancing the treat. Practice will perfect his catch! From a sitting position, your dog raises his forequarters while keeping his rear on the floor.
Your dog should sit on both hindquarters. The alignment of his hindquarters, thorax, forequarters, and head is key to his balance. Use a treat to lure his head up and back, while cueing him to "beg. If his hind-quarters lift off the floor, lower your treat a little, tell him to sit, and tap his bottom down. After several seconds, toss the treat to your dog. Remember to reward your dog while he is in the correct position, not after he has lowered his front paws.
Stand directly behind him, with your heels together and toes painted apart. Steady his chest with your other hand. He will need to find his balance; as he improves, use a lighter touch on his back and chest. This trick builds thigh and lower back strength, which will benefit any dog. Your dog will sit up and beg for your praise! Do not reward your dog if he jumps. Large, long, and deep-chested dogs can learn to beg, but they need more time to find their balance.
Now that your dog is comfortable balancing, try teaching him to stand or walk on his hind legs! Set small dogs on a table for easy access while training. Allow him to nibble the treat. If your dog is barking up the wrong tree. Because most dogs bark at the sound of a doorbell, we'll use that as an example. Stand at your front door, with the door open so your dog will be able to hear the bell.
Give the cue "bark" and press the doorbell. When your dog barks, immediately reward him and reinforce the cue with "good bark. You may have to cue several times to get a bark. If your dog is not barking, return to the previous step. Strangely enough, this can be a difficult transition for your dog. If at any point your dog is repeatedly unsuccessful, return to the previous step.
Never reward your dog for a bark unless you asked for this behavior. Otherwise he'll speak up anytime he wants something! Dogs will often bark out of frustration.
Speak for it! Once you've mastered speak, use this skill to learn my dog can count page ! Kneel down in front of him, holding a treat to the side of his head opposite the direction you wish him to roll.
Praise and release the treat. This should lure him to roll onto his back, and over to his other side. Reward the moment he lands on his opposite side. You want his neck arched as if his nose were trying to touch his shoulder blade. Try not to physically push him to his side, as he may interpret this as a domineering action and submit.
Build on this skill to teach roll yourself in a blanket page Most dogs have a dominant side, so start by teaching a rollover in the direction your dog seems to prefer. Stick 'em up or you're a dead dog! Put your dog in a down page 16 and kneel in front of him.
Hold a treat to the side of his head and move it toward his shoulder blade, as you did when teaching roll over page Your dog should fall to his side. Praise him and give him a belly scratch while he is on his back.
If he is likely to roll completely over instead of stopping half way, stop him with your hand on his chest. Your dog should stay in this position until he is released with "OK" or "you are healed!
Practice in combination with roll over, so your dog understands the difference. Try lowering your voice to a more commanding tone to stop the wagging. Or don't worry about it.
Will you die already! Talk about a scene stealer! Lure him onto his side, as in a rollover. Chapter 3 Time for Chores Dogs and people have lived in symbiotic relationships throughout history, each providing the other with valuable services. People provide food, shelter, and veterinary care, while dogs traditionally served humans by offering protection, hunting assistance, flock tending, vermin control, and transportation by carts and sleds.
In today's modem world, your dog may not be expected to serve in these traditional capacities, but that doesn't mean he gets a free ride! Your dog can still earn his keep by helping around the house with these modern chores.
Dogs need something to do. They want to feel useful and love to work for praise and a sense of accomplishment. In this chapter, you '1I leam some useful tricks that can become part of your dog's daily chores. Sure, it will take effort to teach your dog. Feel free to try tliese out on your kids. Your dog will be most enthusiastic to do his chores ifhe feels they are important jobs. When he brings you the morning paper, take a moment to appreciate this wonderful service instead of casually tossing the paper on the table.
When he carries your purse, don't let him get away with dropping or chewing it. This is a valuable item! And if he proudly offers you two slippers from different pairs go ahead and wear them with pride! After all, what' s more important than the feelings of your best friend? Your dog will distinguish between your shoes and someone else's.
Note though, it is not guaranteed that you will receive a matching set! Point to the slipper, and tell your dog to "fetch shoe" page Reward a successful fetch. Your dog will come to understand that a "shoe" is any footwear that smells like you. In two weeks, you could be receiving slippers while sitting in your armchair!
Don't accept the object. What can I say. Toss his leash playfully and tell him to "fetch leash" page You'll want to secure the metal clasp within the leash so your dog doesn't bonk himself in the head with it in his exuberance! Forming a circle with the leash by buckling the clasp onto the handle is not always a good idea, as the dog can get tangled in the loop.
Point to it and encourage your dog to "get your leash! Reward your dog by immediately buckling his leash to his collar and taking him out for a walk. In this trick, the reward is a walk instead of a treat, so be sure to introduce this concept early on. This method of communicating his wishes sure beats barking and scratching at the door, so try to reward his politeness with a walk as often as possible. A straight peg is a better idea. Use the leash to teach walk the dog!
Reward your dog by taking him for a walk. You'll be sure to get double takes as you stroll the block with your dutiful pooch as he walks himself. With your dog leashed, he carries the loop end of the leash in his mouth. Now that' s doggoned clever! After a few moments, take the leash from his mouth and reward him. Instruct him to take it and heel by your side. He's walking himself! Dogs skilled in "take it" will pick this trick up qUickly. The problem will be in convincing your dog to hold the leash for an extended time, especially when there are tempting smells to sniff.
Your dog will enjoy the freedom of holding his own leash, and may even test your rules by trying to take the leash from your hand as you walk. This is dangerous territory, as it could be perceived as a challenge to your dominance.
Give it some thought beforehand. He should not be allowed to drop the leash except upon your command. This wouldn't be the best way to work out pack-dominance issues. Learn mail carrier page 76 to vary this trick by having one dog "deliver" the other dog to a family member! The ideal leash length is 18"" em longer than the distance from your waist to your dog's collar. A flat braided leather leash will become a favorite, "I pull on my leash when 1 go for walks. Sometimes, people tell my owner she should train me.
Give your dog the verbal cue and reward him with a treat or praise for retrieving the paper. If your mailbox has a flap door, your dog can learn to pull it open page 73 , close it page 70 , and even lower the flag adapted from turn off the light page 68! As dogs have a habit of dropping items after they lose interest, be consistent in teaching them that the paper is an object that needs to be reliably delivered. Ask your delivery person to install a dog-height newspaper mailbox.
Large-jowled dogs such as bloodhounds and Newfoundlands are generous with their saliva! If your dog enjoys this job, walk out with him and wrap a section of yesterday's paper around the the new paper. Most of the salivation happens as dogs approach the front door, so be qUick to take that paper!
Once your dog has learned to get the paper, don't pick it up for him if he drops it. It is now his responsibility.
When you reward this behavior, do so with a treat from your other hand positioned between your dog's paws, so that he must bow his head for the treat. Start by requiring only a mild bowing of his head, and be sure to give the treat while your dog is in the correct position-with bowed head. Have your dog put his paws up, cue him with "prayers," and position a treat below his forearms. Using the "bow" cue page may help him get the idea to lower his forequarters. In its final stage. Dogs usually take a few weeks of squirming before they begin to understand trick.
Your arm should be coming from below. Be creative-teach a doggy prayer with "amen" as your release word. Never give your dog acetaminophen Tylenol. Your dog's kennel is his personal space and he deserves to be left alone while inside. Blankets and a cover make it cozy and comfortable.
Tossing a few treats inside may entice him to explore it further. Once he goes in the crate, immediately praise him and give him a treat. Remember to give the treat while he is inside the kennel, as this is the position you wish to reinforce. Dogs are smart. They will understand that "kennel up" refers to any of their crates or boxes. Cool before serving. After a long day, Ijust curl up and think about things.
Put a handful of treats inside and close it. If he drops the purse, do not pick it up but rather point to it and instruct him again to "take it. When he realizes treats are inside the purse, he will be less likely to abandon it if he gets bored. Dogs resist some textures such as metal or embellishments and smells including perfumes and cigarettes. Leather purses are a favorite. Sometimes, your dog will put it down for a minute to swallow or scratch-do not judge too harshly, but insist that he pick it back up.
With any dog you're probably going to get some teeth marks on your purse eventually. Try a zippered pouch. Dogs ascertain objects that have importance to you: purse, wallet, cell phone, car keys. They will enjoy the responsibility of carrying these items. I can make the alann go off If I bite the keychalnjust right! First, teach the skill of putting the toys into the toy box and add to the trick later by teaching the opening and closing of the lid.
As he opens his mouth for the treat, the toy should fall right in. Praise this success! When your dog returns with a toy, point to the toy box and instruct him to drop it page At first, reward each successful drop in the box, and later require several toys to be deposited before rewarding. The rope should be long enough so that when your dog pulls it from behind he is not hit by the lid.
At first, reward any rope pull, but as your dog improves he should be required to pull the lid completely open. When he does, allow the lid to fall closed and reward him. Lay a dish towel across the rim of the toy box to avoid a frightening slam. Help him be successful by lifting the lid a few inches and encouraging him to put his nose underneath. Add this trick to your dog's daily chores, and you'll be the envy of the neighborhood!
Your dog is eager to please! I don't know why, that'sjust what I do. Require him to pull it completely open. He finishes with his head down, ready for night-night. Note the direction your dog predominately rolls. If he rolls onto his left shoulder, face him and instruct him to lie down page 16 on the blanket so that the majority of it is to his left. Bunch it up near his head so it will be easier for him to grab. Praise and reward him qUickly when he takes the blanket in his mouth.
Be sure to only reward if you take the blanket from his mouth, and not if he drops it on his own. Encourage him to stay down while being rewarded. Dogs often release the object in their mouth when instructed to rollover. If this happens, offer neither praise nor reprimand-simply put your dog back and try again. In time, you will drop the individual cues. Practice other commands while your dog holds something in his mouth: take it, spin or take it, down.
Start with him standing, have him take the blanket in this position, and continue holding it while he lies down. Learn say your prayers page 42 and wave good-bye page to have your dog bid good night before rolling up in his blanket. He should hold the blanket throughout the roll.
Chapter 4 Funny Dog Laugh and your dog laughs with you. One of the joys of dog cohabitation is the unabashed silliness your dog infuses into everyday life. Just as obedience is a crucial part of a successful living arrangement with a dog, so too are silly tricks an integral part of the bonding process. If you want your dog to be well behaved and obey your commands, take an obedience class.
But if you want your dog to honk a horn, play the piano, pick your pocket, and hide his head under a cushion then read this chapter!
People won't be able to resist laughing as your playful pooch entertains a crowd with his antics! Although these tricks look like pure silliness, they are based upon sound training techniques that utilize your dog's intelligence and coordination.
Enjoy your funny dog! Say "squeak! Keep hold of the toy in one hand, and reward him with the other when he squeaks. Use an excited tone of voice as you encourage your dog to "squeak! It's a great trick for waking up the kids or whenever things are too quiet around the house! He will soon learn that the sound is the desired effect. Some human foods can be poisonous for dogs: chocolate, onions, macadamia nuts, raisins and grapes, potato peelings, tomato leaves and stems, and turkey skin.
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